1861 Arthur's Magazine Overboot - WIP Testers Needed

Difficulty - Advanced Intermediate. This project requires you to create components by adjusting stitch and row counts for fit as well as free hand for the 3 edge rows around the opening of the boot. Basic construction skills are also required.

For this project you will need:

Caron 1 Pound Yarn in the color of your choosing. The original pattern calls for black. I made the test for this piece out of gray for the sake of my sanity.

Suede to make shoe sole, or premade 2 piece suede slipper sole. (Etsy)

Size G 4mm Crochet Hook

Size US 6 4mm Knitting Needles

Stitch Markers (This is the perfect reason to buy some...or some more...lol)

Row counter is helpful

Steel or Plastic Yarn Needle for construction.

3 or 4 Buttons

Elastic Thread to make button loops.

Paper, slightly longer than your foot.

Pencil for tracing.

Scissors

Knit Stitches:

All knitting is plain knitting

kfb - knit front and back increase

k2tog - knit 2 together decrease

Crochet Stitches:

ch - chain

sc - single crochet

blsc - back loop single crochet

hdc - half double crochet

dc - double crochet

tc - treble crochet

bldc - back loop double crochet

The shoes you will wear these over. This is probably the most important item because the entire pattern is based around the shoe. If you haven't seen what a shoe from the 1860's looks like, THIS is an article you'll want to take a look at. You could wear these over modern dress shoes, but sneakers would be a stretch to fit.

Step 1. Trace your boot. Make sure to keep the pencil straight up and down and not tipped inwards while you are tracing. You want your sole template to be slightly larger than the outline of your boot. Cut out the template.

The first part of this project is creating the sole. I did knit this a little tighter than what I normally knit to keep the fabric a little more dense since this is the part of the over boot that will see the most wear and tear during use.

Note - Hold your knitting up to your sole frequently to check the sizing.

Sole is made in knit.

NOTE: ALL INSTRUCTIONS BASED ON WOMENS SIZE 9 - you will need to adjust by either increasing or decreasing the number of stitches & rows to fit your shoe size. Hold your knitting up to your sole frequently to check the sizing.

Right Sole:

Cast on 6 stitches in the method of your choosing.

Heel:

kfb, knit 4, kfb (8)

kfb, knit 6, kfb (10)

kfb, knit 8, kfb (12)

knit 10 rows (12)

kfb, knit 10, kfb (14)

knit 10 rows (14)

Increases for curves begin:

kfb, knit 13 (15)

knit 10 rows (15)

kfb, knit 14 (16)

knit 5 rows (16)

kfb, knit 15 (17)

knit 1 row (17)

kfb, knit 17 (18)

knit 1 row (18)

kfb, knit 18 (19)

knit 1 row (19)

kfb, knit 19 (20)

knit 25 rows (20)

Decreases towards toe begin:

knit 18, k2tog (19)

knit 6 rows (19)

k2tog, knit 17 (18)

knit 1 row (18)

k2tog, knit 16 (17)

knit 1 row (17)

k2tog, knit 15 (16)

knit 1 row (16)

k2tog, knit 14 (15)

knit 1 row (15)

k2tog, knit 13 (14)

knit 1 row (14)

knit 12, k2tog (13)

knit 3 rows (13)

k2tog, knit 11 (12)

knit 1 row (12)

k2tog, knit 10 (11)

knit 3 rows (11)

k2tog, knit 7, k2tog (9)

knit 1 row (9)

k2tog, knit 5, k2tog (7)

knit 7

cast off, sew in ends.

Left Sole:

Cast on 6 stitches in the method of your choosing.

Heel:

kfb, knit 4, kfb (8)

kfb, knit 6, kfb (10)

kfb, knit 8, kfb (12)

knit 10 rows (12)

kfb, knit 10, kfb (14)

knit 10 rows (14)

Increases for curves begin:

knit 13, kfb (15)

knit 10 rows (15)

knit 14, kfb (16)

knit 5 rows (16)

knit 15, kfb (17)

knit 1 row (17)

knit 17, kfb (18)

knit 1 row (18)

knit 18, kfb (19)

knit 1 row (19)

knit 19, kfb (20)

knit 25 rows (20)

Decreases towards toe begin:

k2tog, knit 18 (19)

knit 6 rows (19)

knit 17, k2tog (18)

knit 1 row (18)

knit 16, k2tog (17)

knit 1 row (17)

knit 15, k2tog (16)

knit 1 row (16)

knit 14, k2tog (15)

knit 1 row (15)

knit 13, k2tog (14)

knit 1 row (14)

k2tog, knit 12 (13)

knit 3 rows (13)

knit 11, k2tog (12)

knit 1 row (12)

knit 10, k2tog (11)

knit 3 rows (11)

k2tog, knit 7, k2tog (9)

knit 1 row (9)

k2tog, knit 5, k2tog (7)

knit 7

cast off, sew in ends.

Over Boot Body is made in ribbed crochet, ch1 & ch 2 do not count as a stitch.

Boot body (make 2)

Move center stitch marker up with each row so center point mark is maintained. I also mark row ends.

Chain 19

Row 1: dc into 3rd chain from hook, place marker in 9th (center) stitch, ch 2, turn (17)

Row 2: bldc 8, 3 dc in next stitch, bldc 8, ch 2, turn (19)

Row 3: bldc all stitches, ch 2, turn (19)

Row 4: bldc 9, 3dc in next stitch, bldc 9, ch 2, turn (20)

Row 5: bldc all stitches, ch 2, turn (21)

Row 6: bldc 10, 3 dc in next stitch, bldc 10, ch 2, turn (23)

Row 7: bldc 22, 2 bldc in last stitch, ch2, turn (24)

Row 8: bldc 12, 3 dc in next stitch, bldc 10, 2 bldc in last stitch, ch 2, turn (27)

Row 9: bldc 26, 2 bldc in last stitch, ch 2, turn (28)

Row 10: bldc 14, 5 dc in next stitch, bldc 12, 2 bldc in last stitch, ch 2, turn (33)

Row 11: bldc 32, 2 bldc in last stitch, ch 2, turn (34)

Row 12: bldc 17, 5 dc in next stitch, bldc 15, 2 bldc in last stitch, ch 2, turn (39)

Row 13: bldc 38, 2 bldc in last stitch, ch2, turn (40)

Row 14: bldc 20, 5 dc in next stitch, bldc 18, 2 bldc in last stitch, ch 2, turn (45)

Row 15: bldc 22, 3 dc in next stitch, bldc 21, 2 bldc in last stitch, ch 2, turn (49)

Row 16: bldc 48, 2 bldc in last stitch, ch 2, turn

Row 17: 24 bldc towards center, ch 5 (24+5 ch)

Row 18: bldc into 3rd ch from hook, bldc to end, ch 2, turn (27)

Row 19: bldc 27, ch 4, turn (27+4 ch)

Row 20: bldc into 3rd ch from hook, bldc to end, ch 2, turn (29)

Row 21: bldc 29, ch 7, turn (29+7 ch)

Row 22: bldc into 3rd ch from hook, bldc to end, ch 1, turn (34)

Switch to blsc for next rows. This is a place to increse/decrease to adjust for size. Add more rows for a larger ankle, decrease rows for smaller.

Row 23-36: blsc 34, ch 1, turn (34)

Row 37: blsc 34, ch 2, turn (34)

Return to bldc for remaining rows.

Row 38: bldc 34, ch 2, turn (34)

Row 39: bldc 29, ch 2, turn (29)

Row 40: bldc 29, ch 2, turn (29)

Row 41: bldc 27, ch 2, turn (27)

Row 42: bldc 27, ch 2, turn (27)

Row 43: bldc 24, ch 2, turn (24)

Row 44: bldc 24, tie off (24)

Body should look like this when folded.

Freehanding the Edging:

You are next going to complete 3 rows of a combination of SC, HDC, DC and TC to even out the edging along the opening.

You will then follow this with 2 more rows of SC to complete the edge band, which will allow for the attachment of buttons, loops, and the faux fur.

Working the "Fur":

This is completed by first creating a ground of plain knitting to create the ground you will work the fur upon. Cast on 10 stitches, knit a length that will fit the cuff of the boot as you prefer. I did a partial cuff for the demo piece, measuring 11" in length.

The fur is made in Turkey Stitch - take a look at this video for a quick tutorial HERE I put my thumb in the loop as I stitch to make sure all my loops are the same size.

Construction:

Using a length of yarn, attach suede sole bottoms to the sole of your boot.

Using stitch markers, attach sole of boot to boot body. Arrange so suede insoles are on the inside while you sew as you will turn the boot right side out once sole has been attached.

At this point I find it easiest to work with the boot around the shoe to ensure proper placement of cuff and buttons.

Using a 36 inch length of yarn, whip stitch fur cuff to boot ankle.

Pull edges together using stitch markers. Decide where you will place buttons, sew on using yarn.

Double thread elastic through the flat sc edge and make loops that coordinate with the button locations.